New Orleans (“The Big Easy”) is a beautiful city and I just can’t imagine how crazy it gets during Mardi Gras. Even without Mardi Gras, you can still admire the architecture in the French Quarter, ride the St. Charles street car to see dozens of the antebellum mansions, eat fresh and soft beignets (powdered sugar French donuts) at the famous 24-hr Cafe Du Monde, and try some of America’s best fried chicken at Willie Mae’s Scotch House and Dookie Chase’s Restaurant. New Orleans has A LOT of fancy white tablecloth restaurants that aren’t too expensive and super tasty; you do need to check the dress code and reservations though. You don’t need a car in Nola and get cheap Uber everywhere. It’s cheap and affordable unless it’s Mardi Gras ;).

 What to Do | Eat Sweet | Eat Savory | Where to Stay  | Map 

Items listed in order of priority with neighborhood in parentheses. Anything in italics is on my to-do list.

What to Do in NOLA

1. French Quarter 

Free to visit. Beautiful French-influenced architecture to admire, little shops to visit, local art galleries, and delicious cafes and restaurants.

2a. Jackson Square

Free to visit. Historical park in the French Quarter of New Orleans, it was known in the 18th century as “Place d’Armes” and later renamed in honor of Andrew Jackson. It faces the Mississippi River is surrounded by historic buildings including the St. Louis Cathedral (Free, French Quarter): Among the oldest cathedrals in the United States.

2b. The Presbytère

Situated right in Jackson Square, this museum is only $6 for adults. It has two permanent exhibits that tells the ongoing Louisiana story—one of celebration and one of resilience.

3. French Market Place

Free to visit. Flea market with cheap goods and cheap eats.

4. Bourbon Street

Free to visit. This is the heart of where the dirty bars and strip clubs are and crazy stuff goes down. Lots of Fat Tuesday slush drinks available. Go early in the week or it is cleaner on Sundays. Pat O’Brien’s ($$, French Quarter, Bar) has a famous Hurricane drink.

5. St. Charles Street Car Ride

$1.25 one way. This super cheap 45min one-way street car ride will get you views of a lot of beautiful, old mansions in the Garden District. Make sure to get on at the first stop (Canal at Carondelet) or else you’ll be standing without a seat. Be wary of pickpockets. I would just Uber at the end of the ride.

6. Frenchman Street 

Free to visit. Live jazz and music, more for the locals. supposedly the better version of Bourbon Street.

7. Graveyard Tour 

Lots of graveyard tours to choose from. For the good graveyards, you’ll need a tour guide to get in.

8. National World War II Museum

Heard this museum is amazing.

9. Louis Armstrong Park 

Free to visit. Don’t go too late in case of crime, but go at night for the lights.

10. Plantations and Mansions 

A bunch of them to visit and check out in Nola. Some require a car but I just did one that is just Uber-able. I went to the Longue Vue House and Gardens, also known as Longue Vue; it’s a historic house museum with associated gardens at 7 Bamboo Road in the Lakewood neighborhood.

What to Eat Sweet in NOLA

1. Cafe Du Monde

($, French Quarter): Known for the best beignets and also the most famous. Don’t wear black because you’ll get powdered sugar all over you. Sometimes the line is long (even the take-away line) in the morning, so if you don’t want to wait, go during off-peak hours.

2. Bananas Foster

($): Invented at Brennan’s in 1951 New Orleans, this dessert is cooked banana with vanilla ice cream topped with sauce made from butter, brown sugar, cinnamon, dark rum, and banana liqueur. It typically comes as a tableside performance (flambé).

3. Bread Pudding

($): Famous in the South and should be available at all the fine dining restaurants in NOLA

4. King’s Cake

($): More a Mardi Gras dessert item, it’s a typically sweet brioche (or pastry puff) dough cake in the shape of a hollow circle with a glazed topping sprinkled with purple, green, and yellow sugar.

5. Angelo Brocato

($, Mid-city, Gelato): Italian ice cream and bakery good for gelato and cannoli.

6. District Donuts Sliders Brew

($$, Lower Garden District, Donuts): The donuts are amazing and innovative but the sliders are too salty. It’s on a cool street you can walk around at.

7. Blue Dot Donuts

($): Founded by three New Orleans Police Officers with a passion for coffee and donuts. You know they are good.

8. Hansen’s Sno-Bliz  

($, West Riverside, Shaved Ice): Shaved ice with very sweet flavorings – just okay.

9. Sucre

($$): Macarons, ice cream, frozen yogurt, and exotic chocolate bars. Nothing super special or unique to Nola but delicious, beautiful, and super cute nevertheless. Enjoy afternoon tea upstairs!

What to Eat Savory in NOLA

CAJUN/CREOLE
Turtle soup, alligator, gumbo, sausage, jambalaya 

1a. Commander’s Palace

($$$, Garden District, Cajun/Creole) : It’s a New Orleans classic. Super famous and delicious white tablecloth fancy dining. Expensive and you must respect the dress code and make reservations. We also tried turtle soup here. New Orleans is famous for putting turtles in their soup but I didn’t like it and I got it at several fancy delicious restaurants. Really salty and similar to French onion soup.

1b. NOLA Restaurant

($$$, French Quarter, Cajun/Creole): Emeril Lagasse restaurant that is surprisingly great. You should make reservations or hope there are enough spots open at the bar.

1c. Brennan’s Restaurant

Seafood Gumbo

Seared Tuna

($$$, French Quarter, Cajun/Creole): Delicious white tablecloth restaurant that invented bananas foster dessert. Remember to make reservations and respect the dress code.

1d. Cochon

($$, Lower Garden District, Cajun/Creole): With a pig in its logo, order the pork cheeks and add the fried alligator gastropub-style.

1e. Jacques-Imo’s

($$, Leonidas, Cajun/Creole): Get alligator cheesecake and fried chicken.

1f. Pascal’s Manale

($$$, Uptown, Cajun/Creole): BBQ shrimp, oyster bar, and bread pudding.

1g. Upperline Restaurant

($$$, Uptown, Cajun/Creole): Shrimp remoulade, turtle soup, and gumbo

1h. Mother’s Restaurant

($$, Central Business District, Cajun/Creole): Expect a line out the door and it has ethnic food. It’s like a cafeteria where you order while in line and then pick up your food to sit down. Heard it wasn’t impressive unless you want roast beef sandwiches.

1i.Galatoire’s Restaurant

($$$, French Quarter, Cajun/Creole):  On my to-do list. Fine-dining century-old (jackets required).

1j. Restaurant August

($$$$, French): On my to-do list. Fine-dining.

SOUTHERN COMFORT FOOD
Fried chicken, collard greens, mac & cheese

2a. Willie Mae’s Scotch House 

($$, Tremé, Southern Comfort Food): Best fried chicken ever. Uber there and wait in line.

2b. Dooky Chase

($$, Tremé, Cajun/Creole): Obama and the Pope wrote letters to the owner and chef. Good fried chicken and offers a lunch buffet. Get there early or wait in line.

SANDWICHES
Non-po’boys like muffuletta

3a. Central Grocery and Deli

($$, French Quarter, Italian): Small Italian specialty food store that invented the muffuletta sandwich. Wait in the line and buy one (or half of one)

SEAFOOD
Grilled oysters, shrimp po’boys, and crawfish boils

4a. Domilise’s Po-Boy & Bar

($$, West Riverside, Sandwiches): Famous for oyster and shrimp po-boys

4b. Acme Oyster House

($$, Central Business District, Seafood): Raw Oysters, grilled oysters, jambalaya, and fries. Grilled oysters are a NOLA staple and regional specialty; if not ACME, some people like going to Dragos  ($$, Warehouse District, Seafood) for them.

4c. Big Fisherman Seafood

($$, Touro, Seafood Market): Crawfish boil and order by the pound

4d. Frankie & Johnny’s Restaurant

($$, West Riverside, Seafood): Seafood extraordinaire. Oysters, po-boys (another word for sandwiches on French bread),  shrimp, and crawfish.

4e. Peche Seafood Grill

($$$, Warehouse District, Seafood): Get the baked drum, fried bread balls, and tuna dip.

BRUNCH
Delicious Southern-style breakfast

5a. Stanley

($$, French Quarter, Breakfast & Brunch): Expect scrambled eggs, pecan smoked bacon, Creole breakfast potatoes, and multigrain toast.

5b. Court of Two Sisters 

($$, French Quarter, Breakfast & Brunch): Mediocre brunch buffet but the selection is wide and the seating outside is picturesque; it’s a French courtyard with possibly live music. I think it’s historic?

Where to Stay

We stayed in the French Quarter at the beautiful, luxurious, and convenient Omni Royal Orleans Hotel. It was only $197/night.

Map

JoYo New Orleans Map is available here.
RED = Explore.
YELLOW = Eat Sweet.
AQUA = Eat Savory.
PURPLE = Party.

Resources

If you have time to acquire some NOLA reading beforehand, I highly recommend this beautifully illustrated book about New Orleans: Very New Orleans: A Celebration of History, Culture, and Cajun Country Charm.